After watching Bafana Bafana’s close shave against Mexico on TV, my brother, David, and I went off to see France vs Uruguay at the new Cape Town Stadium. In short: imposing, massive structure.  We had really good seats. 8 rows back from the field on the halfway line. (We bought tickets made available after cancellations.)

The Highlights: Seeing thousands of people–not just South Africans–walking central Cape Town streets at midnight, using public transport (we were on a 12.30am train to Observatory, a suburb of Cape Town) and the buzz of the city center filled with multinational bands of fans. This is unheard of in a place where criminals, or fear of criminals, have forced people to not venture out after dark, even less take unreliable public transport.  (Trains are running specially for the World Cup late at night.)

One of my friends, also at the game, noted that if Cape Town can get its proposed rapid transport bus service completed and then to work, such a public culture could become permanent.

Oh, the match was underwhelming.

The French team managed to undermine themselves while Diego Forlan and ten defenders won a draw.

Quick take: Local mainstream media, especially the sports reporting, are still as bad as ever.  As a perceptive visitor noted: “It feels like the 1970s.”  For most people the internet is still not a factor in following the game. It is still TV.

Finally, my bugbear: I am looking forward to my second live match at the stadium Monday night, Italy vs Paraguay and will definitely bring earplugs again.

I am still astonished how the annoying plastic vuvuzelas have become associated with football culture.  And as being an inescapable part of African football. Of course, a massive corporate push has a lot to do with it. Like this popular ad for one of the local cellphone services that control the mobile industry here like a cartel:

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tfIZ7krIg8E&w=500&h=307&rel=0]

* I am picking up on lots of cultural developments, and will blog this when I am back. For now it is strictly, short, fast stream of consciousness posts.

Sean Jacobs

Further Reading

Kwame Nkrumah today

New documents looking at British and American involvement in overthrowing Kwame Nkrumah give us pause to reflect on his legacy, and its resonances today.

Goodbye, Piassa

The demolition of an historic district in Addis Ababa shows a central contradiction of modernization: the desire to improve the country while devaluing its people and culture.