Critical mass
Cycling as community in Dar es Salaam.
Image © Mejah Mbuya.
- Interview by
- Wangui Kimari
Non-motorized transport is the most popular means of getting to work in Nairobi and Dar es Salaam, with millions of people walking to work every day in these cities. While cycling in urban spaces was habitually the domain of the few, the brave, and primarily men a few years ago, now more and more residents of various walks of life are taking up biking in these East African metropolises.
In countries like the Netherlands or Denmark, the uptake of cycling would not be worth reflecting on. But in East African cities, where very few roads are built with cycling lanes, let alone adequate pavements, and new infrastructures continue to have the car bias of, for example, North America and the United Arab Emirates, the dogged defiance of more and more cyclists on the road is not only noteworthy, but also inspiring.
Critical Mass events in Nairobi and Dar highlight this expanding scene, and the inter-generational and cross-class profiles of attendees gestures towards the multiple reasons people take up biking in these places, beyond the oft stated motivations of saving the planet or cost. Indeed, below, Meja Mbuyah, a pioneer bicycle activist from Dar es Salaam, shares how many cultural, infrastructural and economic barriers to biking are being dispelled by the expanding network of cyclists in this city. And through these actions, cycling is fostering community.
Tell us about yourself: Who is Mejah Mbuya?
I am an entrepreneur and bicycle activist based in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. My passion for cycling goes beyond just the ride; I am dedicated to advocating for better infrastructure, safer roads, and a more cycling-friendly environment for everyone. I strive to inspire others to embrace cycling as a fun, eco-friendly, and healthy mode of transportation. Whether it’s promoting cycling awareness or leading cycling tours, my mission is to make cycling more accessible and enjoyable for all.
My journey started as a bicycle advocate in 2006, by creating bicycle tours in Dar es Salaam. This work stems from the desire to showcase Dar in a different light—using a sustainable form of transport to explore the city. We typically aim to provide locals and tourists with a unique way to experience Dar es Salaam’s rich culture, history, and landmarks, while also promoting cycling as a mode of transport. It’s not just about sightseeing but also about showing the benefits of cycling in urban spaces. At Umma Wa Wapanda Baisikeli Dar es Salaam [Community of Bicycle Riders in Dar es Salaam—UWABA] we campaign for better and safer road conditions for cyclists and host the annual Dar Bicycle Caravan.
What do you want the world to know about Dar es Salaam?
Dar es Salaam is a vibrant and welcoming city that offers a blend of rich history, culture, and natural beauty. The indigenous ethnic groups of Dar are the Zaramo and Ndengereko, though Dar is home for many migrants from other parts of the country. Its central neighborhoods have diverse architectures with local influences and those ranging from India, Iran, Britain, and Germany.
Regarding cycling, Dar es Salaam has been making strides to improve its infrastructure for cyclists. While the city’s roads can be busy and hectic, there has been increasing awareness around the need for better cycling lanes and safer streets for those who prefer to explore by bike. The local government and cycling organizations are working to raise awareness about the benefits of cycling for both the environment and public health. It’s an exciting time for cycling in Dar es Salaam, with more initiatives promoting cycling as an affordable, eco-friendly, and healthy mode of transportation.
You have done a lot of work to push for non-motorized transport in the city; tell us about this work, and what inspired you to start cycling in the city.
I’ve been passionate about promoting non-motorized transport for a while now; we realized that cycling had many benefits—it’s sustainable, affordable, and can help reduce traffic congestion and pollution in the city. But for people to make cycling a part of their daily routine, they needed safe roads, proper lanes, and better public awareness about the advantages of cycling. So, UWABA has been advocating and lobbying to raise awareness, create advocacy campaigns, and partner with local authorities to improve cycling infrastructure.
Cycling city tours can also inspire community engagement. It also offers a perspective of the city that cars just can’t provide, and it encourages people to slow down and really engage with their surroundings. By combining practicality with sustainability, we are laying the groundwork for a more pedestrian- and cyclist-friendly city.
Is cycling a major way for people to move about in Dar es Salaam?
It is not as prevalent or widespread as in many other major cities globally; it is estimated that less than 5 percent of its residents are using bicycles on a daily basis. The city’s transportation system is primarily dominated by buses, motorcycles (known locally as boda bodas), the new BRT [Bus Rapid Transit] Mwendokasi buses, and private cars. However, there has been growing interest in cycling, particularly for recreational purposes, and the cycling community is growing.
While cycling is gaining attention, its widespread adoption in Dar es Salaam faces challenges. Besides congestion and limited cycling infrastructure, on some streets, pavements are being squeezed not only by planners but also by street vendors; small traders have turned the pavements into their business spots, blocking pedestrians’ movements. Also, culturally, cycling is sometimes associated with a lower socioeconomic status. There is a general perception that people who use bicycles are poor. Because many people do not want to be seen as poor, they tend to avoid bicycles even if they can afford one. Middle-class Tanzanians may avoid cycling due to concerns about social perception, as cycling is often viewed as a means for those who cannot afford motorized transport. There are also communities where cycling is not seen as a “woman thing.” In such communities, women are discouraged from cycling. But, on the other hand, the high rate of accidents involving non motorized transport users is another factor making people fear it.
Despite these challenges, initiatives are underway to promote cycling as a sustainable and efficient mode of transport. UWABA has led efforts and actively works to raise awareness about the benefits of cycling and advocates for better cycling infrastructure. We organize events such as cycle caravans to map bicycle routes and highlight the need for dedicated bike lanes.
What do you hope to achieve by offering bicycle tours of Dar?
There are several goals we would hope to achieve. First, promote sustainable transportation; by showcasing Dar es Salaam through bicycle tours, the aim is to raise awareness about the environmental benefits of cycling. We also hope for all to gain a more intimate and immersive experience of the city; this helps foster a deeper appreciation of the city’s heritage and local communities. Cycling also is a great way to build a sense of community. Whether you’re a local resident or a tourist, there’s something special about sharing a ride through the city with others. It’s also an inclusive activity that can cater to different ages, abilities, and backgrounds, creating a welcoming environment for all. By embracing cycling, we can also contribute to a shift toward more sustainable cities, in Dar es Salaam and beyond.
