In Search of Maputo

* Guest Post by David Patrick Lane

Somewhere along the architectural and art deco eye candy scale between Miami Beach and Mogadishu sits Maputo. Mozambique’s capital wears its decorative dress well. It may be a touch over accessorized with Marxist Leninist Avenues and side street dwellings may be less about curvy shapes, lines and pastels than the practicalities of providing shelter and cheap pedicures, but even now as Chinese cranes create condominiums, the city retains an ornamental cache that continues to attract students of architectural history and post modernist design. In ‘Searching for Pancho’, a short film by South African filmmaker Christopher Bisset about the work of Pancho Guedes, perhaps the most renowned of all building designers — about five hundred structures all told — in what was then Portugal’s piece of the action, Lourenço Marques, is surveyed. The film is a cute piece of work.


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Recycling Rubbish

Many of you know those spectacular images of burning computer parts and beautiful, sad young men, taken in some God-forsaken corner of polluted Ghana where the ‘West’ has dumped all its obsolete toys to be ‘recycled’.

Now, here’s Southern Africa’s answer: we can do apocalyptic burning and degraded human beings on rubbish tips, too. Portuguese photographer Jose Ferreira’s images of the “Trashland of Maputo” , taken in the dump of Huléne (just a few meters from Maputo’s airport), are supposedly meant to make us move beyond the “caricatures of the poor and homeless, who are often camouflaged between common jokes and cartoons from the civilized world.” He adds that  the people in these images, “who have empty eyes and shapeless smiles,” make the experience of their lives “more human.”

It’s not that lives like this do not exist; it’s not that this is a compelling subject (why do we allow such suffering? Why permit such degradation in fellow human beings?), or unworthy task to force those who are either ignorant of such suffering, or usually like to turn the other way to really stand and contemplate the lived reality of these Others. It may be that Ferreira makes us think about all that we discard. But there’s something that’s rehashed here – too much of the whiff of exploitation, for the value of shock, rather than an invitation into a space of contemplation (and possibly, towards action).

And please: I know this isn’t about computer parts, or the discards of the West. But if you want to make your mark as photographer, why copy Pieter Hugo’s “Permanent Error“?

Moçambique Popular

Long before football blogging became commonplace and banal (think Dirty Tackle and The Spoiler), Davy Lane blogged about football. He started again before the 2010 World Cup which took him to South Africa and then post-World Cup to Mozambique, through his blog, The Other Football, and later at the blog Football is Coming Home, which I had started along with football historian Peter Alegi. Davy’s dispatches, following the Uruguyan team, between Cape Town, Kimberley, Pretoria and Johannesburg, and his giving a voice to ordinary South Africans talking about their World Cup, are still worth reading.  Anyway, we asked Davy his impressions of all kinds of media consumption in Mozambique and South Africa. Read it below. The images are by Alyssa Sealock, a student of mine at the New School who had spent time in Mozambique.–Sean Jacobs.

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Music Break

The video for “Fairy Tale” by South African-based Mozambican band, 340ml.

The video was shot in the Mozambican capital, Maputo.

‘Every single day is hot in Mozambique’

I want to see more of this film: The slam poet, Capela, is shown in a clip from the new short, “Slam Video Maputo” by Austrian director, Ella Raidel. The film explores “… the making of self-image of Mozambique where its popular culture mirrors the intersection of global and local cultures.”

Sean Jacobs

Mozambican Democracy

Elections in Southern Africa is usually one big party if you’re the ruling party and if you’re not in Zimbabwe. Take Mozambique, South Africa’s small neighbor to the northeast, where the rapper MC Roger sells record on the back of the electoral campaigns of the ruling Frelimo (they’ve governed uninterrupted since independence in 1975–the opposition is so bad and tainted). You may not be a Frelimo supporter–they won the elections at the end of last year–but you’ll tap your feet to this tune, “Mocambique sempre a subir” (Mozambique is always improving). Nice beat.

Via Anne Pitcher

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