Livetweet Recap: NYT (and Vogue Italia) “Rebrands Africa” (again)


From a series of tweets I did on the New York Times story “Rebranding Africa” which you can read here. [Read more...]

Arise Fashion Week

Pillbox hats are back! What else, besides a nouvelle variation of the old-school “Turkish” headgear, is in style at Arise Magazine’s 2012 fashion week in Lagos? After a drive through Victoria Island to get there, passing massive signs advertising “JESUS”, golden highrises and tattler headlines blaring “BOKO HARAM’S PLOT TO ATTACK SOUTH UNCOVERED,” we’re treated to waterfalls of fabric accentuating the lively flows of a woman’s walk, necklines wider (and going deeper) than a duck’s wake, and enough flash to invite comments about how ‘colorful’ Africans can be. Even from a distance, we can see the cut and construction is far superior to anything Gwen Stefani might attempt with “African” fabric. Here’s hoping that one day, AIAC is invited to the front row!

Nigeria Fashion Week

Probably to coincide with New York Fashion Week, Vice released the Nigerian installment of its “Fashion International” series. It’s not bad considering how Vice usually treats Africa (reference: Congo, Liberia and Ghana) and it definitely captures some of the energy of Nigeria. But it can’t help itself. We’re barely a minute into Vice’s report (“looking for something beautiful behind the depressing headlines”) on Nigeria’s 2011 fashion week when we’re told Lagos is troubled by “civil unrest, religious tension and wide-spread corruption” that “have lead to calls for the resignation of long-standing president Goodluck Jonathan.” Pretty prescient. The first Nigerian to get some words in is the “fantastically named” fashion week’s organizer Lexy Mojo-Eyes “who looks like Don King”; next up are the fashion week’s female models (but it quickly gets too “naked”, so the reporter moves on to the male models), wondering why they love “to represent Africa.” [Read more...]

Michael Kors’s Safari: Part 2


Lord, these fashion designers and their obsession with the safari motif.

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The excitement about ‘African fabric’

The Dutch fabrics manufacturing company Vlisco–the image is from the company’s new line “Delicate Shades“–says its “strategy is aimed at enabling well-to-do African women to experience the brand in all her facets … Developments take place at neck-breaking speed in Africa and Vlisco aspires to inspire and gain the loyalty of younger generations as well. Innovation is therefore an essential element within the company.”

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Vivienne Westwood in Kibera

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Safari Suits

Hoping to dress people who want to reference themselves as elites who’ve had the leisure to “do good” after having spent as much on their wardrobe as they did on their fave charity? Michael Kors did, apparently.

I like Kors’ self-parodic performances on the TV show, Project Runway, and also like that he’s more into producing for the fashion consumer (albeit the animal-print clad Amazonian variety with the deep pockets); not mystical productions intended to generate critical acclaim (often done without the talent necessary for any real critic to drum up any acclaim).

But this year, for New York Fashion Week, he produced what The Guardian’s culture critic and sometime-fashionista Hadley Freeman described as “gap year-esque fare” following the “eternally popular and eternally misguided theme of “safari”,” which “looked like something designed solely for a magazine fashion shoot in Africa, probably starring Angelina Jolie lounging decorously on a designer handbag while gazing soulfully at some noble tribesmen.”

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Louboutin’s Emancipated Breast

Christian Louboutin is known for the same impossible stiletto heels as Jimmy Choo, but with an added attraction: a strip of carmine-red leather, sewn to cover the underside of each shoe. As a woman walks (or totters) off in those 5-inch heels, she leaves a flash-trail: an infinitude of sexual invitation. Or, as my uncles say, “It’s like a lady baboon’s red arse. Seeing red as she walks away means she’s sexually mature and ready.” (Indeed, some in the hip-hop mogul community call Louboutins “Red Bottoms”.)

And so far, that’s all I had to beware of when I strumpeted around in my only pair of Louboutins: that I was sending ‘lady baboon’ signals (also that I’d permanently damage my ankles, back, feet, and feminism). But for Louboutin’s Fall 2011 ‘Lookbook’, he teamed up with photographer Peter Lippman to re-envision a hodgepodge of Rennaisance-y/Restoration-y portraits that recreate paintings. Each ‘look’ showcases a specific portrait, but also the fall collection; there’s sumptuous costumery, heavy symbolism, heaving fruit, the hint of spilling bosoms, and well-placed products: sky-high heels.

There’s Georges de la Tour’s “Magdalene and the Flame”: instead of Magdalene’s intensity and longing, intensified by the presence of the flame, in this arrangement, the flame is reduced to a secondary player – it is the extraordinary boot that gets her smouldering stare. Francisco De Zurbaran’s demure “Saint Dorothy” gazes not heavenward, but at a platter topped with a purple shoe. Even James McNeil Whistler’s “Grey and Black: The Artist’s Mother” (popularly known as “Whistler’s Mother”) is given the glamour of a feather-topped bootie.

But wait! Black people are represented in Louboutin’s spread, too!

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Corner Shops and Arcade Games

Interview by Dylan Valley*

Cape Town based Anthony Smith and Bradley Abrahams’ 2 BOP (above) videogame clothing label is inspired by corner shop arcade games and video game culture. They produce intriguing retro videogame references on understated but stylish street wear garments. Choosing often-obscure characters and typography that only real gamekoppe (game heads) and old schoolers will recognize (such as the blue fireball from Street Fighter,) they are building legions of followers globally. I chatted to Anthony about corner shops, gaming culture and creating imaginary friends.

The phrase “two bop” is Afrikaans slang for twenty cents. Why this particular name?

You used to use 20-cent pieces to play the old bootleg arcade games at corner stores in the hood here. So a 2 bop was a valuable thing, depending on how good you were, a 2 bop could mean hours of entertainment. It’s also about being proud of our local language and culture.

How did the label come about?

I wanted to do a clothing label when I was at university but never had a strong enough concept and was too busy having fun to ever be productive. Thinking back, I used to make my own one off bootleg skate tee shirts (H-street, Powell Peralta) and hip hop (Public Enemy) shirts when I was growing up as it was tough getting nice stuff in South Africa back in the day so it’s always been a part of me. I also used to hustle selling skateboards and accessories as a kid, so maybe that’s where the business side comes from. 2 BOP also grew out of wanting to create a local brand that people would feel proud about, and that referenced their culture in some way. Also, I wanted to create stuff that I wanted to see people wearing. The label is almost like an imaginary friend, creating something that you wish existed, like what would blow your mind if you walked into a store and then on top of that you find out it’s made locally by somebody just like you, not some multinational corporation. And of course, the video game obsession.


Was gaming a big part of your life, growing up?

Yeah it’s been a huge part of my life growing up. As a little kid during the apartheid days we didn’t have access to lots of comic books or cartoon shows or great public spaces to play in; so these corner store games became our playgrounds and windows into imaginary worlds. It was great getting access to this cutting edge game design, sound and graphics in a landscape that was quite bleak in terms of art and design. A bunch of my friends and I were equally obsessed with computer, console and arcade games but I remember feeling disappointed when I realised that the average kid wasn’t as crazy about games as I was. Street Fighter 2 was a HUGE part of my life, that game was a full time not even extra mural but mural activity, spawning friendships, rivalries, crews, legends, champions and contenders. I don’t know how many 2 boppe I dropped into that game. I stopped playing games seriously for a long time but always kept my eye on the industry and would play the odd highly acclaimed title but got back into playing a lot recently when Capcom did a great job by rejuvenating the fighting game scene with Street Fighter IV in 2009.


The corner café or “caffee” as we used to call it, with its game cabinets were very much a staple in South Africa over the past few decades, but with bigger shops and supermarkets swallowing the small “ma and pa” corner shop, do you see this kind of gaming culture dying out?

I honestly don’t know, I thought that these machines would have died away by now but they seem to persist with companies maintaining these bootleg games. A lot of the machines don’t run the original arcade hardware anymore but use PCs emulating the games but you wouldn’t be able to tell. So as long as it’s viable, I guess the stores will keep maintaining them. I think corner store culture in South Africa wouldn’t be the same without them.

How would you describe the street wear/ fashion coming out of South Africa at the moment?

Young. I don’t really follow what too many people are doing. I do see a few brands that are trying to find their voice, but also a lot of brands that are just doing the obvious stuff, following international trends, not really telling any stories. I’m in denial about being in the fashion industry as I’m self-taught and maybe that’s why I don’t follow that world too closely. There are some amazing South African designers though, my favourite being Shukrie Joel.

What’s the best reaction you’ve had to a design/ garment thus far?

Ha ha, I’ve had some kids asking for autographs when they met us at a street wear convention. My business partner Brad is emotionally challenged so his response was to want to lie down on the ground and ignore them. We just had a laugh and spoke to them.

Two Bop Australia has just recently launched, what’s next for you guys?

We’re looking to get more international distribution. We sell a lot to North America and Europe through our online store but the shipping from the Southernmost tip of Africa for single items is pricey so we’d like to get some good distribution over there.

For all things 2BOP (and to buy merchandise) visit their site.

* Photo Credits: Antoinette Engel (first picture at the top) and Rachel Granofsky for 2 Bop.  This marks the beginning of Cape Town-based Dylan Valley‘s collaboration with AIAC.

Louis Vuitton goes all Zimbabwean

Nyasha Maronhodze, the new face of Louis Vuitton, entered the modelling world just two years ago after winning the UK Elite Model Look competition in 2009. Legend goes that the Zimbabwean-born Maronhodze was scouted on the streets of the Northamptonshire town in which she now lived, and invited to London for a casting – for which she showed up in her school uniform.

And now, she will be couture clothed by Louis Vuitton’s creative head, Marc Jacobs, and shot by fashion photographer Stephen Meisel for a slick new campaign featuring new faces. Maronhodze’s angular, healthy beauty will (hopefully) ensure that the campaign won’t deteriorate to the degradation and pale anorexia that Jacobs is usually famous for cooking up.

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