Everybody’s trying to rebrand Africa, and it isn’t going so well. Vogue Italia’s latest issue — boosted by great billowing gusts of editorial hot air from both the New York Times and the Guardian — is called “Rebranding Africa”, and as you’d expect the whole thing is an embarrassing and insulting shambles. The images are okay, but otherwise it feels like something a middle-schooler cobbled together for a class project. And then got a “D” for it.
First: you’re re-branding the continent of Africa — as one does — so who do you pick as your cover star? Well, it was the obvious choice. What self-inflating fashion magazine wouldn’t lead their Africa edition with a picture of a South Korean diplomat sitting behind a desk in Manhattan? That’s right, people. The new face of Africa is none other than UN Secretary General Ban Ki-Moon. There are so many way to read this choice. An obvious take is that Vogue Italia, despite their claims of “rebranding” Africa must have decided Africans can’t govern themselves and need UN intervention.
The interview with Ban is very curious reading indeed. Apparently, the man is just world class at regurgitating very precise development statistics. It reads like an annual report of a large multinational NGO. Either that, or what we’re reading is a mashed up press release or a stilted email exchange dressed up as a conversation that actually took place (the latter is most likely the case). He drones endlessly on about the Millennium Development Goals, which is exactly what you’d expect him to do, but is also precisely the opposite of the kind of thing which invites the readers of Vogue Italia to think of Africa in a new way. With Ban Ki-Moon as its new face, Africa is (a) boring and uncool, and (b) a stubborn problem to be managed by foreign technocrats. No change there.
So why is he on the cover? We have absolutely no idea. The man dresses like any other boring technocrat. The Guardian said the Vogue Italia coverage showed that the effort to rebrand the continent “wasn’t just a token effort” and that it made us (in the West, naturally) sit up and take notice. How? To us, all that this shows is that the addled people at Vogue Italia are incredibly unimaginative, and quite weird when it comes to its coverage of the unfamiliar — that is, the dark continent/country of Africa.
One guy they could have picked instead for the cover is Nigerian President Goodluck Jonathan, whose moribund interview with chief editor Franca Sozzani really ought to be somehow preserved in formaldehyde and wheeled out at journalism school graduations as a chilling example of just how bad journalism can get. Much of the copy is taken up with Sozzani’s worrying whether they can photograph Goodluck the Vogue way.
The “interview” is really long passages of Sozzani generously offering her explanation to Jonathan of exactly what is wrong with Nigeria:
All the richest Nigerians spend their money abroad because there a no shops here, no hotels with a chic African flair, no hip restaurants or clubs. Why not build an African Rodeo Drive in Lagos or Abuja, with boutiques carrying both imported and Nigerian goods?
Finally, there’s a single lonely quote from Jonathan in there, in which he agrees with the long speech Sozzani has made. It’s not often we feel sorry for Goodluck Jonathan, but seriously, poor chap. It’s also not sure when they did the interview. There’s no word of #OccupyNigeria, which showed Jonathan up to be insensitive and dithering.
You also get the sense that the next time Vogue Italia “do” Africa, Nigeria’s notoriously corrupt and terrifyingly incompetent oil minister will probably be the new cover star, as Sozzani drools mindlessly over one of Nigeria’s most detested politicians:
We are joined by the Minister of Petroleum Resources, Diezani Alison-Madueke, a gorgeous and elegant woman – who also happens to be a princess – dressed in traditional robes, with a Master’s from Cambridge and the distinction of being the first woman to run Nigeria’s most important ministry.
Actually they did already. In the same issue.
Sozzani’s representation of Nigeria’s complex social and political situation is as astute as you’d expect it to be, and thanks to the internet, she gets called out big-style by a Nigerian called “Rachel”, whose comment on the website is by far the best piece of writing in the entire magazine, print or online:
This is possibly this worst piece of journalism on Nigeria I have EVER read. I cannot tell you how angry people are reading this. It is a shallow piece of vanity which glosses over the complexities of the tensions in Nigeria. When you say ‘Muslim’s ultimatum to the Christians’ – do you mean that all the Muslims who make up half of the 158 million people living in Nigeria have a vendetta against Christians? WHAT ARE YOU TALKING ABOUT???? It was Boko Haram’s ultimatum – you can’t just say ‘Muslims’ throwing in millions of people into a sentence who have felt just as much violence and suffering as Christians in Nigeria. It isn’t just Christians who have died during the violence but many Muslims. Sweeping statements like this fuel tensions between Christians and Muslims but of course that is perfect for the American audience who probably believe every Muslim is part of Al Q’aeda.
Your dramatic entrance to Nigeria was completely unnecessary. There are thousands of expats who have lived here for years in complete safety. It is reports like this that do nothing for the country. Do not flatter yourself to believe that you would be of ANY value to a terrorist. You would probably annoy the hell out of them. WHY did the editors think it would be important for readers to hear what you think what should be done in Nigeria? You were talking to the President of the country who is dealing with increasing rates of poverty and a decline in security and you are telling him to build an African Rodeo Drive? Oh yes, please build it so the 5% of the super wealthy population that can actually afford to buy from these sort of shops will no longer travel. The rest of the population can look on with their begging bowls in envy.
And also – the Petroleum Minister is probably one of the most corrupt people in Nigeria who has only added to the poverty, and therefore the security problems in the country. Don’t you know ANYTHING about the fuel subsidy scandal here? Do you know how many people are calling for her resignation? I feel so disappointed. I dread to think what the issue is like. I agree with you on one thing, it is important that people see beyond the famine and death in Africa and see the potential it has to grow but the potential has to be found in communities who are doing what they can to get out of poverty whether it be telecommunications to do banking, solar energy to power their small businesses or community initiatives to support women. What use is a Banana fricking Republic?
Sozzani responded with this rather bitchy outburst:
@Rachel: It’s been a long timesince I last received such an idiot comment on my website. When I say Muslims, I never thought that the entire population of muslims is against Catholics as I live part of my life in Morocco and all my friends there are Muslims. I think that you took the negative side of the article and I’m sorry to say that is you who is against your own country, not me, as if we give work to women and we build up new shops and hotels, even for the 5% of the population, it can attract tourism and give job to local people. Is this nothing for you? Is it so unnecessary that I go to see them and try to help them?Iif so, I’m sorry for you, you don’t love your country and don’t want to help it. I don’t care and I go on my own way and certainly you won’t stop me. Just for yuor info, all the people – young designers, tailors and those producing fashion – are very happy and selling well thanks to me. This is the most important thing for me. [sic]
Blimey. It’s a close one, but I think overall we’re with Rachel on this.
Other than that there’s a short piece on El Anatsui which wrongly says he works in Ghana and then miraculously manages to rebrand (why not?) his transcendent genius as yet more developmental gobbledygook:
Forerunner of a big part of the continent’s contemporary art, with his artwork he has shown how a possible solution for his country is that of believing in the concept of recycling as a source of creativity and richness.
Some bearable features on African footballers in Italy and Didier Drogba, they discover Nollywood again (The New York Times has done so too recently), the formerly disgraced Kenyan TV journalist Jeff Koinange (whose style is something to behold), that country’s Prime Minister Raila Odinga, Swedish-Ethiopian chef Marcus Samuelson (there are other top African chefs Vogue Italia), a picture of the Rwandan Ambassador to Britain handing his credentials to Queen Elizabeth II who is dressed in what resembles a nightgown, more Presidents, and a few models.
And then there’s Tommy Hilfiger, who gets some great free advertising with an African alibi as the magazine reproduces yet another long, unreadable press release. An unattributed quote explains how the mostly boring fashion scenster Hilfiger is basically the new Jesus Christ:
When Tommy Hilfiger came to the village for the first time, no one knew who he was. But when locals realized how famous he was in the rest to the world, they were very impressed: they were satisfied that if someone so important, rich and privileged could be interested in them and spend time with them, they themselves counted more than what they had been led to believe. They began to have more faith in the possibility of change.
Well, Africa, consider yourself rebranded.
and to continue here is an article about “African” artist El Anatsui titled “Art installation requires creative eye — and tetanus shots”, which says it all really, not one picture of the magnificent sculptures, but some vague descriptions of the materials they are made of, because in “Africa, it is normal to work with recycled stuff, as there is nothing else, right?!”. Finally, the most telling is the end remark of the curator “This show doesn’t have anything normal. All our rules are out the window. We think a panel is one height, but when we lift it up, it shifts and extends itself, which is frustrating and exciting all at the same time.” Replace ‘show’ by ‘continent’ or ‘country’ as the West seems to see Africa and you get the whole vogue edition in one sentence.
http://www.pennlive.com/newsflash/index.ssf/story/art-installation-requires-creative-eye-and-tetanus-shots/10475b3a4b01cd5ea351e560e2fa8964
You know what they say, those who can’t do write for ‘africaisacountry.’
I’m sure this view will piss everyone off here but it’s gotta be said: Such a polarized, angry conversation as people look across cultures at each other. A sense of humor would help. Why not write a satire “Rebranding Italy”? Speak in the fashion world’s language to get through to them. I work with fashion people and can tell you they are on another planet when it comes to communication; many of them are as arrogant as the editor of Italian Vogue, it almost seems like a prerequisite to work in that industry. There is very little effort made at a constructive debate here – it’s just people yelling at each other. I totally agree with this column’s point – when i first saw the IV piece i actually thought it was a joke akin to Sasha Baron Cohen’s “The Dictator,” just very poorly pulled off. But the intellectualizing is tiring and, in my view, pointless. They cannot hear you. Find another way to talk about it. Use humor. You have to do a Borat. And even then you’ll not succeed – many Americans thought Borat made Kazakhstan look bad (as did many Kazakhs!). It actually made Americans look bad as they revealed homophobic, racist, elitist attitudes in scene after scene. So go to Italy and parody their attitudes. And then be a bit honest: there’s a lot of backward shit to laugh at in Nigeria just as there is in England, Japan, Peru, etc. etc. etc. Finally, one last comment: it’s Italian Vogue, not American. Isn’t Vogue a Hachette publication, i.e. French? So the comment slamming Americans about it is a sad error to make in the response Rachel wrote. There is no monopoly on racism, sexism, homophobia, etc. It’s everywhere.
Vogue is actually a Conde Nast publication. But i do agree that her American-slamming is flawed as it is Italian not American Vogue that she is so angry with.
@Rambo: that’s what they usually do haha.
Reblogged this on TABASAMU AFRICA MONOLOGUES and commented:
With all due respect to The Secretary General, its absurd that he get’s to be on this cover! … it is African’s re-branding Africa.
I am fed up to the teeth with the pseudo experts on Africa, especially the Sozzani’s of this world who when caught red handed have the audacity to mouth back, spreading more foul emissions … thanks for publishing this on your blog !
“An obvious take is that Vogue Italia, despite their claims of “rebranding” Africa must have decided Africans can’t govern themselves and need UN intervention.”
I think the cover is absolutly consistent with Vogue I contents: it reads “L’uomo Vogue rebranding Africa”, “The Vogue man rebranding Africa”. That’s why Ban Ki Moon is on the cover. They are telling us that he is doing the rebranding.
Loved the blog entry, and Joe’s comment is spot on!!! We need a bit of humour (as much as the Vogue issue pisses me off) to make things a bit easier for the world to understand!
I can appreciate your perceptions on the Rebranding Africa issue of Vogue Italia. Perhaps what this may teach them is to 1) conduct proper and thorough research on their subject–i.e. Africa; 2) stick to what they know best–i.e. fashion–; 3) stop making outlandish statements and acclamations about a group of people that are far removed from their own reality; and 4) stay away from generalisations (journalism 101). Such treatment of something like ‘Africa’ is detrimental to the progress the continent is making, both internally and internationally. We see this in the generalisation of Muslims in Nigeria, which–although she was referring to Boko Haram–”will” spark much uproar worldwide. For those who do not know about Diezani Alison-Madueke, this article does not highlight how she is perceived in Nigeria, what she has done, and how she could seriously set women back decades.
However, I find it slightly unfair to lash out at the entire issue, which I have read cover-to-cover. I do find that slightly juvenile on the part of the writer, as the bit on fashion does highlight the industry, and promotes the championing of local African brands as opposed to the reliance on Western imported labels. Yes, there are more influential, interesting people she could have interviewed who are making a significant impact on the continent, but she has no real idea who they are, and she shot herself in the foot when she entitled the the L’Uomo issues “Rebranding Africa.” No longer do Italians or us non-Italian Vogue Italia readers accessing this publication, but also Africans, Asians, South Americans, West Indians, etc. now that this is online and in English. Now is the time for them to be even more accountable for what they say and how they say it. I only hope that she will be less defensive and more aware of the power the pen has on a world that is now even more connected.
P.S. Joe’s comment is hilarious and rather insightful.
I have been living in Africa for over 20 years now, seems like Vogue got everything wrong did they try and do this or was it just a monumental cock-up, hope they fired whoever was responsible for authorizing this piece, unbelievable bad journalism, they should stick to fashion they just spoiling their name for no reason.
please was i in there some?
The Queen of Buganda, Sylvia Nagginda, is featured. She is a good woman, doing great work, not living lavishly. And it is not easy being a queen in a context where the husband can have other partners and children by them in search of a male heir, as her husband, the King, just did. I have lived in Uganda since 1986.
I’ve been compelled to comment. This is probably the most insightful article I’ve read about the Vogue Italia African project. The cover star was a very wrong idea. The outlandish comments on Muslims in Nigeria another blooper and her defensive comment on her website wrapped it up with a lining of shame. She is supposed to welcome criticism whether positive or negative. On the other hand she is right when she says many DESIGNERS on the continent benefited – yes they did. The articles weren’t well written though – The Nabagereka feature wasn’t satisfying and overly disappointing. There is a lot more to her than that.
Thanks – this is a really inspiring review – a great example of how external commentators, despite good intentions, can often make a complete hash of things, especially when they don’t truly “listen” to all the relevant voices. I loved the sensible comment from “Rachel” about change needing to come from within communities themselves. The response from Vogue Italia’s editor-in-chief was shocking. I’ve blogged a bit more about this “broadcast paradigm” here: http://www.monkeyswithtypewriters.co.uk/luomo-vogue-the-broadcast-paradigm-and-why-we
There is a much worse scenario: Vogue placing competent journalists on producing a good read and attractive ideas on “re-branding” Africa (I sense either Kagame and/or Obama on the cover). We would find a sad majority of those on the continent with access to the magazine/internet celebrating itsself re-branded by Vogue. I am happy it turned out so bad, and fear the day someone does the job more intelligently.
I find the comments that only talk about the Vogue issue as a piece of journalism miss the point: when Vogue makes a particular choice about their cover, it reflects a larger issue about the industry, the money and people behind the magazine, the people Vogue represents, solicits, interpellates, appeals to, etc. From this perspective, their view of Africa, and what has to be done, really sucks. They have to do quite more than just improve their research: how about talking to Africans, hiring Africans and let Africans represent themselves and the continent?
Reblogged this on consciousfoto.
The response to Rachel is unfortunate. Vogue Italian is lead by people who only know something about fashion and nothing else about Africa..I wouldn’t want a discourse with an ‘intellectual milksop’ and a dandy who cares so much about magnificent shopping mauls in country where majority have low purchasing power parity.
Reblogged this on delusional ugandan teen mind and commented:
Africa my have it’s woes but certainly we don’t deserve sneaky, “bestsellers” without information to re-brand it.
Africa certainly has it’s woes that we have never denied but when a magazine categorically focuses on it’s sales, distorts facts, concocts stories all in the name of re-branding, then i guess focusing on re-branding the magazine itself should take first priority.
This is one poorly done piece of a magazine that shames the journmalism proffession as a whole but worsestill kills further the african image.
Next time, instead of magazine writing, why not try write escapades of how manhattan coffee with a UN secretary general warms stomachs and give us the science behind it, forget about re-branding AFRICA we don’t need you!